With hard-to-ignore sparkle, assertion gems are a strolling commercial in your salon and a simple upsell as a result of they’re quick, straightforward and also you don’t must be notably inventive to perform good outcomes, says veteran nail artist Gina Silvestro. A consumer who requests this add-on isn’t any shrinking violet, so it’s essential that this glitzy look shines and stays put.
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Each profitable assertion gem software begins with the proper embellishment. Acrylic gems are the least costly and are available a spread of colours and shapes, however should not very sturdy, lack in luster and should not work properly with gel or acrylic. Glass or artificial crystals are usually extra sparkly and sturdy, however include added price. For extra-large gems, search for a slight curve on the underside, says Van Nuys, California-based nail artist Yvett Garcia. “When they’re too big and flat, they tend to snag on things too much.” Because of this, Silvestro recommends limiting the dimensions of flat-backed stones to 8mm or much less.
Although most techs have their favourite attachment method, one of the best technique could rely upon the scenario, together with the kind of gems used, the product at present on the nail and required sturdiness. Gems get their brilliance from gentle reflecting off the sides, so no matter attachment technique, something on high of the stone will boring the shine. Right here, consultants share their suggestions and tips for optimum brilliance and bling that gained’t budge utilizing nail polish, glue and gel.
Making use of gems with nail polish.
Attaching gems with nail polish is just advisable for short-term use, as nail polish doesn’t have the identical endurance as extra heavy-duty adhesives. Nonetheless, it nonetheless may be the proper selection for a consumer who returns continuously for normal manicures or desires to check out some bling earlier than committing to something extra. Earlier than starting the service, be sure purchasers know that stones can fall off pretty rapidly. After making use of high coat, permit the nail to dry barely. Then, press the gem into the highest coat when the floor is moist sufficient to set it, however not too moist that the gem slides or smudges, says Garcia. As soon as hooked up, don’t apply extra high coat. As a substitute, use a small nail artwork brush to fastidiously apply extra high coat across the base of every gem, if required.
Making use of gems with glue or resin.
Nail glue is a powerful adhesive that units rapidly, however it have to be used fastidiously since it might probably corrode the highest of some gems and harm stones’ silver backing over time. If gluing gems over common nail polish, be sure the highest coat is 100-percent dry first, says Garcia. If utilizing glue over gel polish, treatment the nails, then evenly buff the shine from the design space previous to software for higher adhesion, Silvestro advises. Select a quick-set glue and use solely what is critical. At all times apply glue to the nail (not the gem) and place the stone on the nail utilizing a moistened cuticle stick or wax-tipped instrument for optimum management. Further glue may be positioned on the base of every stone for extra energy.
Making use of gems with gel.
This technique is robust sufficient to stick even the biggest stones. And since gel doesn’t hurt glass or artificial crystal, the gems may be soaked off, saved and reapplied at future appointments. No particular floor preparation is required. Merely apply gel and crystals instantly over the cured coloration or set acrylic.
Making use of gems with gel is a two-step course of, says Silvestro. First, use a thick, stiff gel to set the gem in place and ask your consumer to pivot her hand back and forth whereas it’s curing beneath the lamp. “This allows the light to cure the gel in between the crystals,” she explains. Subsequent, fastidiously safe the crystal utilizing a medium-thin viscosity gel to cap the perimeters. “Think of it like a ‘gel prong,’ which will hold the gem in place in the way that a prong holds a diamond on a ring,” she says. “The gel needs to come up onto the girdle of the stone to really secure it.”
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Don’t be afraid to experiment. Many techs use a mixture of gel and resin to use gems. Garcia adheres bigger stones with a thick onerous gel, then makes use of resin to fill within the gaps after curing. Different techs first adhere gems with resin after which use gel to fill within the gaps. The essential level is making certain that giant stones are secured to the nail’s floor across the whole perimeter of every gem’s base.
Placement Issues
“Closer to the cuticle is the best placement for crystals because the nail plate doesn’t flex there, so it’s a more stable surface,” says veteran nail artist Gina Silvestro. Don’t get too near the cuticle although, cautions Van Nuys, California-based nail artist Yvett Garcia. “It will make it harder to seal the gaps without touching the skin, and when the nail grows out the gem will easily snag on things.” If putting gems on pure nails, follow an association of smaller stones. If a big stone is positioned on the stress level the place the pure nail could bend, there’s a very good likelihood it’ll pop off, says Silvestro.
Right here, find out how Garcia applies gems on her purchasers.
1. Prep the nail after which apply two coats of gel polish, curing after every.
2. Use a lint-free wipe soaked with cleanser to take away the cheesy layer, however don’t apply high coat. Flippantly buff the bottom of the nail.
3. Place a dab of gel adhesive on the buffed space of the nail.
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4. Utilizing a pointed wax pen, choose up a big pointed-back gem, then place it on the gel adhesive at an angle. Repeat this step for added gems, then treatment the nail.
5. Apply resin between and across the gaps of the bigger gems. For higher adhesion, spray gems with an aerosol nail drying spray.
Watch the video beneath to see this step-by-step in motion.
What’s your favourite method for adhering gems? Tell us within the feedback beneath!
-Leslie Henry
This text was first printed within the November 2017 subject of NAILPRO
[Photography by Jason Bennett]
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